1926 Overland Tire Fitment Guide

1926 Overland vehicles use four sizes across two model families. The 1926 Overland 91 Series uses 29X4.75 and 4.75-20, while the 1926 Overland 93 Series uses 30X5.25 and 5.25-20. All of those tires mount on 20-inch rims, but the actual tire designation still needs to match the wheel and the model family rather than the year alone.

That means the first fitment question is not simply whether you own a 1926 Overland, but whether it is a 91 Series or 93 Series. Once the model is confirmed, compare the wheel's existing setup to the tire notation already on the car or to trusted restoration records. That approach keeps you from mixing the smaller 91 Series sizes with the larger 93 Series sizes just because both happen to use 20-inch wheels.

On a 1926 Overland tire, 29X4.75 is an antique diameter-by-section size. The first number, 29, refers to the tire's overall diameter in inches, and the second number, 4.75, refers to the nominal section width. It is a bias-ply style size used on the 1926 Overland 91 Series and reflects an earlier pre-war sizing convention that modern drivers do not see very often.

That code matters because it is not read the same way as a later numeric size like 4.75-20. If your 91 Series has wheels intended for an antique-size fitment, staying with 29X4.75 keeps the tire's appearance and dimensional language consistent with the period. Before making a final choice, compare the wheel and any existing tire markings so the size system on the car matches the replacement tire you select.

On a 1926 Overland tire, 4.75-20 is a numeric bias-ply size. The 4.75 indicates the nominal section width in inches, and the 20 identifies the rim diameter in inches. This size belongs to the 1926 Overland 91 Series, and it represents the newer numeric style that appeared as tire sizing evolved during the 1920s.

Understanding that code helps prevent confusion with 29X4.75, which uses a different naming convention even though both relate to the same 91 Series family. Owners usually use the numeric designation when their wheel setup and existing tire markings already follow that 20-inch numeric format. Matching the notation already associated with the car is often the cleanest path for restoration consistency and straightforward replacement.

For a 1926 Overland 91 Series, both 29X4.75 and 4.75-20 are bias-ply fitments, so the decision is not about bias-ply versus radial construction. The real question is which size system your wheels and existing setup are built around. 29X4.75 uses the older diameter-by-section format, while 4.75-20 uses the later numeric rim-diameter format.

Owners restoring a car to a very period-minded presentation often prefer to stay with the same style of size designation already associated with the car. Owners focused on straightforward replacement should confirm the wheel and any current tire markings first, then stay within the correct 91 Series size family. The same logic applies to the 93 Series, where the parallel choice is between 30X5.25 and 5.25-20.

Only the year-make fitment families are established here for 1926 Overland vehicles: 29X4.75 and 4.75-20 for the 91 Series, plus 30X5.25 and 5.25-20 for the 93 Series. Each of those sizes is a bias-ply fitment suited to a pre-war vehicle. Brand choice should be made within the correct size after the model and wheel setup are confirmed.

That sequence matters more than starting with a brand name, because an incorrect size family will create a bigger problem than any brand preference can solve. Once you have the correct model and size identified, compare the available tread and sidewall presentation with the type of restoration you are pursuing. On a 1926 car, visual authenticity and proper sizing usually carry more weight than broad modern-brand familiarity.

1926 Overland tires should be approached as pre-war bias-ply fitments first, with sidewall appearance chosen to suit the car's restoration direction. For a vehicle of this era, buyers typically look closely at whether the tire's sidewall presentation matches the visual character expected on a mid-1920s American car. The correct style can matter almost as much as the size itself on an exposed-wheel or high-visibility restoration.

A touring-style restoration, a preserved original, and a judged show car may each call for slightly different priorities in sidewall appearance even when the size is the same. The safest approach is to settle the model and size first, then compare the sidewall look against period photos, surviving originals, and marque-club guidance. That keeps the tire from looking out of place even if the basic dimensions are correct.

A 1926 Overland sits firmly in the era when tube-type wheel and tire arrangements were normal, especially with bias-ply pre-war fitments such as 29X4.75, 4.75-20, 30X5.25, and 5.25-20. On cars of this age, inner tube use is commonly tied to the original wheel design as much as to the tire itself. Tube choice should always follow the specific tire's sidewall marking and the wheel's construction.

Before fitting tires, inspect the wheels for condition, cleanliness, and any features that affect tube use, including the valve-stem opening and the state of the rim well. A sound tube, flap where required, and properly prepared wheel are part of the assembly rather than an afterthought. That is especially important on collector cars that may sit for long periods and then return to service only occasionally.

Original 1926 Overland wheels can only be matched within the correct model family, even though all four listed sizes use 20-inch rims. The 91 Series uses 29X4.75 or 4.75-20, while the 93 Series uses 30X5.25 or 5.25-20. Sharing a 20-inch rim diameter does not make those sizes interchangeable across the two models.

The practical takeaway is to treat wheel compatibility in two steps. First, confirm whether the car is a 91 Series or 93 Series. Second, confirm which 20-inch sizing system the wheel is meant to use before fitting a tire. That keeps a larger 93 Series tire from being chosen for a 91 Series wheel setup, or vice versa, simply because the rim diameter number looks similar at first glance.

A 1926 Overland should be stored in a cool, dry, dark space away from direct sunlight, electric motors, battery chargers, welders, and other ozone-producing equipment that can accelerate sidewall aging. Bias-ply tires are especially prone to developing temporary flat-spotting after long static periods. Clean floors, stable temperature, and protection from moisture help preserve both the tire casing and the wheel itself.

If the car will sit for an extended season, move it occasionally or support it in a way that reduces sustained load on one contact patch. Keep the tires properly inflated during storage rather than letting them sag under the vehicle's weight. A simple walk-around every few weeks to look for pressure loss, cracking, or shifting storage conditions is one of the best habits for a lightly used pre-war car.

Tires on a 1926 Overland are usually judged by age and condition rather than by mileage alone, because collector cars often cover limited annual distance. A useful rule is to evaluate them closely once they reach roughly five to seven years of age and to give serious replacement consideration as they approach ten years, even if the tread still looks presentable. The DOT date code on the tire is the starting point for that age check.

A pre-war car can make old tires seem acceptable because it may be driven slowly and infrequently, but age-related hardening and sidewall deterioration still matter. The tire can look decent in the garage and still be overdue for replacement on the road. When in doubt, prioritize condition, age, and intended use over tread depth alone, especially before touring or carrying passengers.

Tires on a 1926 Overland should be inspected before every drive and again before any longer outing. Look closely for sidewall cracking, cuts, bulges, irregular wear, objects embedded in the tread, and any sign that a tire is losing pressure between drives. On a tube-type pre-war setup, the valve stem area also deserves special attention because tube and stem problems may show there first.

That routine becomes even more important on a car that spends much of its life parked. Small issues can develop slowly in storage and only become obvious once the car is moved. Include the spare in the same inspection cycle, since many collector cars carry a spare that is older than the road tires. A five-minute check before departure is far easier than dealing with a roadside failure.

The 1926 Overland 91 Series belongs to a period when bias-ply tires were standard equipment, and its listed fitments are 29X4.75 and 4.75-20. Those two designations reflect the transitional sizing language seen in the 1920s rather than a modern change in construction type. A correct restoration should begin with those size families and with period-appropriate bias-ply construction.

Original-equipment brand selection can vary by market, production timing, and surviving evidence, so the most reliable path is to confirm details with Overland specialists, factory literature, and marque-club resources. For most restorers, getting the model family, size family, and sidewall presentation right has the greatest visual impact. That is usually what separates a convincing period restoration from one that simply has usable tires.

Correct tire fitment absolutely matters when showing a 1926 Overland, especially in judged events focused on period authenticity. Judges and knowledgeable enthusiasts typically notice whether the tire size matches the correct model family, whether the construction is bias-ply as expected for the era, and whether the sidewall look suits a mid-1920s American car. A modern-looking substitute can distract from an otherwise careful restoration.

That does not mean every event applies the same standards, so owners should check the specific judging rules for the club or venue involved. Some events emphasize overall historical appearance, while others scrutinize exact fitment details more closely. If your goal is a strong authenticity score, start by confirming whether your car is a 91 Series or 93 Series and then align the tire size and presentation with that model's proper period fitment.

The 1926 Overland 93 Series uses the larger of the two fitment families listed for the year, with 30X5.25 and 5.25-20 as its correct bias-ply sizes. That is consistent with pre-war practice, when bias-ply construction was the norm and different series within the same make could carry distinctly different tire dimensions. Keeping the 93 Series within its own size family is central to an authentic presentation.

For restoration work, the key is not to assume that any 1926 Overland tire will suit every 1926 Overland model. The 93 Series should be checked against surviving wheel markings, original literature, and marque references so the chosen tire matches both the model and the wheel setup. That extra verification helps preserve proper stance and period appearance without drifting into a size intended for the smaller 91 Series.

1926 Overland tires can be suitable for road use when they are the correct size, properly fitted, correctly inflated, and in sound condition, but they should be approached as pre-war bias-ply tires on a 1920s automobile. The tire is only one part of the equation. Brakes, steering play, wheel condition, suspension wear, and overall vehicle preparation often become the more important limits on a car of this age at normal road speeds.

Owners planning longer drives should think in terms of the entire vehicle system rather than the tire alone. A careful bias-ply setup can serve well within the car's intended use, but a 1926 Overland should not be driven as if it were a modern sedan. If the car has been sitting, rebuild confidence gradually with shorter trips before committing to sustained-distance or higher-speed travel.

Inflation pressure for 1926 Overland tires should follow the pressure guidance appropriate to the exact size and tire being used, with 29X4.75 and 4.75-20 kept separate from 30X5.25 and 5.25-20. On a car of this age, the original owner's manual or factory service information remains the best reference for vehicle-side pressure guidance. The tire manufacturer's stated limits must also be respected on any reproduction or replacement tire.

What matters most is avoiding the temptation to copy a pressure figure from one size family to another just because all of them mount on 20-inch rims. The 91 Series and 93 Series use different tire dimensions, and inflation should reflect that difference. Once the correct baseline is established, monitor cold pressure regularly, since collector cars that sit between drives can lose air slowly without it being immediately obvious.

Before taking a 1926 Overland on a longer drive, inspect each tire for cracking, cuts, bulges, uneven wear, and proper inflation, and make sure the spare is serviceable as well. Pay close attention to valve stems and tube-related areas on a pre-war setup, since age issues often show there first. A visual wheel inspection is just as important, especially on a car that may have spent long stretches in storage.

Treat the tires as one part of a full pre-drive readiness check. On a 1926 car, brake function, wheel bearing condition, steering response, cooling, fuel delivery, and basic tool and jack readiness all matter before distance driving. A tire that is technically the right size still cannot compensate for broader mechanical neglect, so a measured, all-around inspection is the smart way to prepare an Overland for touring.